The Boiling Lake in Dominica is a unique attraction in the Caribbean. There are only a few lakes of its kind in the world and it is a spectacular site. First, the hike into the boiling lake takes a bit of determination and a good pair of shoes. Chris and I left from Portsmouth on a local bus bound for Roseau with a few other like minded cruisers. The trip took a little more than an hour to arrive in Roseau where we were picked up by our guide, Seacat who took us to Laudat to the trail head. The trip along the coast was somewhat heartbreaking as we took in the vast amount of damage caused by hurricane Maria. Most of the houses had damage and many still missing roofs but there was much activity repairing the roofs. Roads on the other hand were lower on the list where they were passable but it made for a rough slow ride. In some cases, bridges were one lane due to the damage (even some damage dating back to hurricane Eric hasn’t been repaired yet).

All bright eyed and bushy tailed we are ready to set off on the trek into the wilderness just before 9am.

Left to right, Jon, Laurie, Lydia, Martin, Bill, Chris and our guide Seacat.

The terrain in this part of the island is very mountainous and there are simply no roads getting any closer to the destination. As usual, when setting off into the wilderness, I had the standard med kit, Emergency beacon (SPOT), lots of water (3 litres), food, rope, grappling hook, VHF radio etc. just in case. Off we set into the wild of Dominica.

The trail has been well laid out with many of the steep parts augmented with wooden logs as steps making it safer. That said, it is still a VERY slippery trail due to the amount of rain in the rain forest keeping everything permanently muddy. It is also very hilly terrain so there are very few flat parts. You are either climbing or descending a grade pretty much at all times. Although the trail in to Boiling Lake is only about 6 km, it is reminiscent of much longer hikes due to the constant elevation change.

Our first interesting site was a wooden pipeline. According to Seacat, this pipeline was built by French Canadians 100 years ago or so. It is incredible that a wooden pipeline can last that long. It must be the great Canadian workmanship 😉 In any case, this was a significant infrastructure construction to carry water from the mountains to electric generation facility in Laudat which supplies electricity for much of the island.

The large Bloodwood trees are still standing but much of the upper branches and leaves will take years to regrow. The native people of Dominica, the Kalinargo used the bloodwood trees to communicate distances by tapping on the roots which can be heard quite some distance away. The wood is also good for carvings.

Most of the entire island has lost the rain forest canopy with will take many years to recover. Many trees are down and those still standing have had the top literally blown off. That said, there is green everywhere as they continue to grow and rebuild their foliage. Even the trees on the ground continue to replace their foliage.

The upside to this is the amount of growth on the ground where the sunlight hasn’t been able to penetrate for many years. Things are even growing out of the rocks! It is incredible how life persists through significant events.

The views were full of rugged, natural beauty. I reminded myself (and Chris) regularly that care was needed with every step. A slip and fall out here in the rugged mountains would mean a very tough, painful trip out! That said, this is a part of the world that only the adventurous get to see and it is well worth the effort.

Much of the trail was along the edge of the mountains where rock slides were prevalent. In some cases the steep hillside meant a misstep would mean a painful slide down a rocky slope for several hundred feet. Given the recovery effort of such an event, it is much easier to take care where you step. Seacat constantly kept us on our toes and on the path, warning of any potentially dangerous steps.

The view of Roseau, the capital of Dominica from the mountains.

As we got deeper into the wilderness there were constant signs of volcanic activity. The ground was warm with hot springs everywhere; and I mean HOT springs. Occasionally I checked the soles of my shoes for signs of melting….

In a particularly active section of the trail, our guide literally boiled eggs in one of the hot pools. It took 5-7 minutes to make delicious soft boiled eggs, a tasty snack for the hike.

Our guide was excellent. He was constantly keeping us informed of what and how we were going to move through the next section of the trail along with making sure we got the customary steam bath…..

…. and volcanic mud treatment along the way.

I think our guide was 157 years old based on his wisdom of the mountains but the mountain keeps him young and he looks more like 27.

The location of the hot springs bathing pools were noted for the return trip.

The Boiling Lake was just that…. A lake of boiling water. The steam coming off the lake was significant and we only got to see the lake for a few seconds at a time as the breeze cleared the steam briefly. The centre of the lake was indeed boiling and the steam coming off the lake was of immense quantity and very warm at the elevation where we were. For the really adventurous, there is a trail that leads from this vantage point down to the water’s edge. Occasionally there are periods of volcanic inactivity a few brave souls have claimed to have swam in the lake. Our guide wants to do this someday, but the lake has never been in a swimmable condition during his many treks here. It was plenty warm enough from the steam where we were, so the trip down to the water’s edge was not high enough on anyone’s list to attempt.

The effects of the steam wafting up off the lake and the breeze blowing in through the valley meant it was either very warm (steam bath) or quite cool with a brisk breeze cooling our damp skin giving us shivers. Thankfully for the sake of our comfort, the steam prevailed most of the time. Unfortunately this also meant only an occasional (and cool) view of the lake itself, but it was a dramatic effect and one that will be hard to forget.

Our guide also brought lunch for everyone to enjoy at the lake. Saltfish sandwiches and fresh salad really hit the spot!

On our way back, we had to do the stop in the hot spring pools. Chris and I were adventurous enough to wade into the pools to ease our aching muscles and then climb up the waterfalls to the rest of the hikers.

This few minutes rejuvenated our muscles for the rest of the trip back to the trail head. We met up with the rest of the hikers with bigger smiles.

After the grueling hike back to the trail head, all were extremely satisfied, albeit a little more droopy and ragged than when we started. The picture doesn’t tell the whole story; there was much mud washed off clothing, shoes and skin before this was taken! We did the headcount and found everyone present.

At the trail head, there is a freshwater stream going through a very deep cavern that was used in one of the scenes in Pirates of the Caribbean part 2. We got to swim into the cave to see where the scene was recorded and get refreshed with fresh cool water. While ending an 8-hour hike with a dip in fresh cool water might be very refreshing, beware of the potential for leg cramps!

A very nice way to finish off a hike!